请参照该指南完成对iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi前面板的更换。前面板或屏幕组件包括顶层的玻璃盖板以及下层的液晶面板。在iPad Air 2上,这两部分组件是不可分离的,需作为一个整体来替换。

注意,Home键里的指纹扫描器是与iPad的主板连接的。为了保证Touch ID的正常工作,你需要将原来的Home键安装到新的屏幕组件上。


在操作前我们推荐你清空微波炉,在底部的任何讨厌的食物残渣最终都可能粘在iOpener上。 把iOpener放在微波炉中间 。
  • 在操作前我们推荐你清空微波炉,在底部的任何讨厌的食物残渣最终都可能粘在iOpener上。

  • 把iOpener放在微波炉中间 。

    • 对于旋转式微波炉:确保盘子可以自由旋转。如果你的iOpener卡住了,它可能会过热并燃烧

which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

fbarletta - 回复

I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

Fredrik -

I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

windizy - 回复

I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

Martin Gray - 回复

I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

Jan Van Puymbroeck - 回复

Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: https://youtu.be/16GkvjVyOJA It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.

Fletcher Carpenter - 回复

I wonder how many people actually wrapped in their iPhone into iOpener and put this "sandwich" into microwave??

putinaspiliponis - 回复

I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

Laurie Higgins - 回复

Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

Yousef Ghalib - 回复

I've been with Samsung for 8 years now!! Never did i have a case on any of my phones My Samsung 8 is 2 months old the case protector around the edge pop off and broke my phone it's like someone put a bullet hole in it

Sherry Carew - 回复

Not everybody has a microwave. You need to state how long and at what temperature in a conventional oven.

Esmond Pitt - 回复

  • 加热iOpener三十秒

  • 贯穿整个维修过程,如果iOpener 冷却了,在微波炉中每次重新加热额外的三十秒。

  • 注意在维修过程中不要过度加热iOpener,过热可能会导致iOpener爆炸。

  • 如果出现膨胀千万不要碰iOpener。

  • 如果iOpener中间部分依然烫的没法碰,请等待冷却后再加热,一个加热好的iOpener 应该可以保持热度十分钟

May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

yamayhuang - 回复

I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

whale13 - 回复

DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

Alex Jackson - 回复

I don't own a microwave.

mdanihy - 回复

Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

Jon - 回复

I don't have a microwave???

Joe Blow - 回复

30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

Sam Stieg - 回复

can i use just ordinary microwave???

juneseok kwon - 回复

If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

Mohideen Rifay - 回复

I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

Travis Dixon - 回复

There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

assortedrubbish - 回复

I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

dave - 回复

If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

Patrick Storey - 回复

  • 把iOpener从微波炉中拿出来,捏着两边扁平边缘中的一个避免碰到中心热的部分。

  • iOpener会非常烫,所以拿着它的时候千万要小心。必要的时候可以使用烤箱手套。

Will a hair dryer work for heating the glass?

Me berg - 回复

Yes, as does a heat gun.

anonymous 4602 - 回复

如果您的显示屏玻璃已经碎裂,防止显示屏玻璃在您维修时进一步伤害您,请使用胶带来固定已经碎裂的屏幕。 给iPad 的正面整面贴上胶带。 这一步将保证在您翘起和移除显示屏时能够保持完整。
  • 如果您的显示屏玻璃已经碎裂,防止显示屏玻璃在您维修时进一步伤害您,请使用胶带来固定已经碎裂的屏幕。

  • 给iPad 的正面整面贴上胶带。

    • 这一步将保证在您翘起和移除显示屏时能够保持完整。

  • 尽量根据下面的指南进行操作。但,一旦玻璃破碎,请停下拆解并使用金属撬刀撬出玻璃,避免更多的碎裂。

  • 戴上安全眼镜来保护你的眼睛。 小心操作不要损坏了LCD内屏。


接下来的几部将会需要用到iOpener来软化前面板下方的粘合剂。 当在微波炉中加热iOpener时切勿加热超过30秒。
  • 接下来的几部将会需要用到iOpener来软化前面板下方的粘合剂。 当在微波炉中加热iOpener时切勿加热超过30秒。

  • 抓住已经加热的iOpener的任意一端,将其放置在iPad的顶端。

  • 将iOpener放置至少2分钟来软化面板下方的粘合剂。

Yeah, this part took longer than written. Over 30 minutes and had to reheat the iOpenner since it got cool enough to only feel warm.

Christopher Lowder - 回复

虽然iPad看起来是一体化高度集成的,但在玻璃面板下面有许多细小的部件,避免伤害那些部件,只能加热或撬动指南内所描述到的区域。 在您按照本指南操作时,请小心下述区域。 Home键
  • 虽然iPad看起来是一体化高度集成的,但在玻璃面板下面有许多细小的部件,避免伤害那些部件,只能加热或撬动指南内所描述到的区域。

  • 在您按照本指南操作时,请小心下述区域。

    • Home键

    • 前置摄像头

    • 后置摄像头

you should be careful with the screen connector on the bottom right when opening

Elyazee Eble Altenawe - 回复

将吸盘小心的放在刚加热的一侧,前置摄像头的位置。 为了提升杠杆力,将吸盘尽可能的放置在边缘处,但不要超过显示屏边沿位置。
  • 将吸盘小心的放在刚加热的一侧,前置摄像头的位置。

    • 为了提升杠杆力,将吸盘尽可能的放置在边缘处,但不要超过显示屏边沿位置。


牢牢地提起吸盘,将前玻璃面板与后壳分离出一道小缝隙。 切勿大力拉动,这将损坏玻璃。 一旦打开一道缝隙请在缝隙处放置一个撬片。防止粘合剂将面板与后壳重新粘连。
  • 牢牢地提起吸盘,将前玻璃面板与后壳分离出一道小缝隙。

    • 切勿大力拉动,这将损坏玻璃。

  • 一旦打开一道缝隙请在缝隙处放置一个撬片。防止粘合剂将面板与后壳重新粘连。


将撬片在显示屏边缘处一直滑动到耳机孔处。 如果在滑动的时候遇到了很大的阻力,请重新加热iOpener,来进一步融化粘合剂。 小心,切勿使撬片在LCD显示屏与前面板之间滑动,这样将会永久损坏显示屏。
  • 将撬片在显示屏边缘处一直滑动到耳机孔处。

    • 如果在滑动的时候遇到了很大的阻力,请重新加热iOpener,来进一步融化粘合剂。

  • 小心,切勿使撬片在LCD显示屏与前面板之间滑动,这样将会永久损坏显示屏。

    • 法则就是,永远不要把撬片插入iPad超过1/4英寸。(约0.6cm)

I think I accidently slid my tool into the fused lcd and front panel and now the entire screen is doing weird lines and different colors and just is not natural its not even usable. I was gonna replace the battery because the batter was popping the entire front panel and lcd off of the base of the device and then when i was openingit up the rest of the way I slipped and it hit something and now its all glitchy. what should i do?? is it even worth fixing anymore? it;s too old for apple care and I already voided the warranty and displays are expensive what should I do? email me @ andrew.heidorn1@gmail.com thanks :)

Andrew Heidorn - 回复

在前置摄像头开口处插入第二块撬片。 在前置摄像头开口处插入第二块撬片。
  • 在前置摄像头开口处插入第二块撬片。


将第二块撬片一直滑动到电源键处。 将第二块撬片一直滑动到电源键处。 将第二块撬片一直滑动到电源键处。
  • 将第二块撬片一直滑动到电源键处。


在前置摄像头处插入第三片撬片。 在前置摄像头处插入第三片撬片。
  • 在前置摄像头处插入第三片撬片。


滑动右边的撬片滑过iPad右上角。 滑动右边的撬片滑过iPad右上角。 滑动右边的撬片滑过iPad右上角。
  • 滑动右边的撬片滑过iPad右上角。


滑动左边的撬片滑过iPad左上角。 滑动左边的撬片滑过iPad左上角。 滑动左边的撬片滑过iPad左上角。
  • 滑动左边的撬片滑过iPad左上角。


  • 再次加热iOpener然后放置在iPad的右边来融化下面的粘合剂。


滑动右边的撬片到显示屏一半的位置。 滑动右边的撬片到显示屏一半的位置。 滑动右边的撬片到显示屏一半的位置。
  • 滑动右边的撬片到显示屏一半的位置。


  • 再次加热iOpener然后放置在iPad左边。


滑动左边的撬片到显示屏一半的位置。 滑动左边的撬片到显示屏一半的位置。 滑动左边的撬片到显示屏一半的位置。
  • 滑动左边的撬片到显示屏一半的位置。


滑动右边的撬片一直到iPad底部那个角的位置。 如果有必要的话,重新加热iOpener来使得右边角位置下方的粘合剂融化。 如果有必要的话,重新加热iOpener来使得右边角位置下方的粘合剂融化。
  • 滑动右边的撬片一直到iPad底部那个角的位置。

  • 如果有必要的话,重新加热iOpener来使得右边角位置下方的粘合剂融化。


滑动左边的撬片一直到iPad底部那个角的位置。 滑动左边的撬片一直到iPad底部那个角的位置。 滑动左边的撬片一直到iPad底部那个角的位置。
  • 滑动左边的撬片一直到iPad底部那个角的位置。


  • 使用iOpener的热量来加热iPad的底部。


将右边的撬片滑过iPad的那个底角。 将右边的撬片滑过iPad的那个底角。 将右边的撬片滑过iPad的那个底角。
  • 将右边的撬片滑过iPad的那个底角。


左边做相同动作。 若果有需要的话重新加热iOpener。  小心,请勿在维修过程中过度加热iOpener。 在重新加热iOpener之前请至少等待10分钟。 若果有需要的话重新加热iOpener。  小心,请勿在维修过程中过度加热iOpener。 在重新加热iOpener之前请至少等待10分钟。
  • 左边做相同动作。

  • 若果有需要的话重新加热iOpener。 小心,请勿在维修过程中过度加热iOpener。 在重新加热iOpener之前请至少等待10分钟。


移开右侧的撬片。 移开右侧的撬片。
  • 移开右侧的撬片。


使用左边的撬片在显示屏底部滑动然后在iPad的右下角拿走它。 请十分小心的操作,切勿将撬片插入深于1/4英尺。 来避免面板伤害到面板下方的Home键和显示排线。 请十分小心的操作,切勿将撬片插入深于1/4英尺。 来避免面板伤害到面板下方的Home键和显示排线。
  • 使用左边的撬片在显示屏底部滑动然后在iPad的右下角拿走它。

  • 请十分小心的操作,切勿将撬片插入深于1/4英尺。 来避免面板伤害到面板下方的Home键和显示排线。


旋转前置摄像头那片撬片。来将面板的顶部与后壳分离。 旋转前置摄像头那片撬片。来将面板的顶部与后壳分离。 旋转前置摄像头那片撬片。来将面板的顶部与后壳分离。
  • 旋转前置摄像头那片撬片。来将面板的顶部与后壳分离。


在前置摄像头一侧继续提起。 将显示屏稍微从底部拉出,将其与后壳完全分离。 继续提起直到屏幕大致与iPad主体垂直。
  • 在前置摄像头一侧继续提起。

  • 将显示屏稍微从底部拉出,将其与后壳完全分离。

  • 继续提起直到屏幕大致与iPad主体垂直。

    • 切勿现在就移除走显示屏,它仍然与后壳连接着3条细排线。


移除单个固定电池端子与逻辑板连接的 1.8 mm Phillips螺丝。
  • 移除单个固定电池端子与逻辑板连接的 1.8 mm Phillips螺丝。


为了防止触电的风险,您可以使用一个电池撬片来切断电池的连接。 将电池撬片滑动到电池端子和逻辑板连接的下方,然后在您工作的时候就无需理会撬片。
  • 为了防止触电的风险,您可以使用一个电池撬片来切断电池的连接。

    • 将电池撬片滑动到电池端子和逻辑板连接的下方,然后在您工作的时候就无需理会撬片。


移除三个显示排线保护壳上的 1.3mm Phillips螺丝。 取下保护壳。 取下保护壳。
  • 移除三个显示排线保护壳上的 1.3mm Phillips螺丝。

  • 取下保护壳。


切断显示数据传输线与逻辑板插座上的连接。 切断显示数据传输线与逻辑板插座上的连接。
  • 切断显示数据传输线与逻辑板插座上的连接。


切断在连接线下方其余两个线缆。 切断在连接线下方其余两个线缆。 切断在连接线下方其余两个线缆。
  • 切断在连接线下方其余两个线缆。


  • 将前面板与后壳分离。


将显示屏组件倒置。 使用塑料打开工具撬起Home键后的支架。 当将支架转移到新的显示屏组件上时,请使用粘合剂将支架固定在显示屏上。
  • 将显示屏组件倒置。

  • 使用塑料打开工具撬起Home键后的支架。

  • 当将支架转移到新的显示屏组件上时,请使用粘合剂将支架固定在显示屏上。


移走Home键支架,并剥去连接其的胶带。 移走Home键支架,并剥去连接其的胶带。 移走Home键支架,并剥去连接其的胶带。
  • 移走Home键支架,并剥去连接其的胶带。


剥离覆盖在Home键ZIF连接器上的胶带。 剥离覆盖在Home键ZIF连接器上的胶带。 剥离覆盖在Home键ZIF连接器上的胶带。
  • 剥离覆盖在Home键ZIF连接器上的胶带。


使用撬棒扁平的一端来翻转Home键线缆插座上的挡板。 使用撬棒扁平的一端来翻转Home键线缆插座上的挡板。
  • 使用撬棒扁平的一端来翻转Home键线缆插座上的挡板。


断开Home键线缆。 断开Home键线缆。
  • 断开Home键线缆。


使用撬棒扁平一端来拨开Home键线缆和Touch ID 控制芯片。 使用撬棒扁平一端来拨开Home键线缆和Touch ID 控制芯片。 使用撬棒扁平一端来拨开Home键线缆和Touch ID 控制芯片。
  • 使用撬棒扁平一端来拨开Home键线缆和Touch ID 控制芯片。


撬起在角落剩余的Home键线缆。 撬起在角落剩余的Home键线缆。
  • 撬起在角落剩余的Home键线缆。


  • 重新加热您的iOpener,将其放置在显示屏的底端,来融化Home键按钮垫圈上的粘合剂。

    • 在进行下一步前请等待大约2分钟来软化粘合剂。

Most screens don’t come with the home button adhesive so during reassembly the residue from the home button gasket is enough but the bracket needs new glue.

Thaddeus Lee - 回复

在接下来几步中,您将要从您的iPad前面板中分离Home键垫圈。  这个垫圈十分细小,也特别容易被撕裂。 如果垫圈不能够从前面板上分离,请使用iOpener来重新加热。 使用撬棒尖端来轻轻地从显示屏上撬起Home键组件。 使用撬棒尖端来轻轻地从显示屏上撬起Home键组件。
  • 在接下来几步中,您将要从您的iPad前面板中分离Home键垫圈。 这个垫圈十分细小,也特别容易被撕裂。 如果垫圈不能够从前面板上分离,请使用iOpener来重新加热。

  • 使用撬棒尖端来轻轻地从显示屏上撬起Home键组件。


继续使用撬棒的尖端在垫圈周围撬动,直到垫圈完全与前面板分离。 继续使用撬棒的尖端在垫圈周围撬动,直到垫圈完全与前面板分离。 继续使用撬棒的尖端在垫圈周围撬动,直到垫圈完全与前面板分离。
  • 继续使用撬棒的尖端在垫圈周围撬动,直到垫圈完全与前面板分离。


移除Home键组件。 移除Home键组件。
  • 移除Home键组件。


请仔细检查您将要替换的组件是否与原组件相匹配。 您新的屏幕组件可能缺少针对于Smart Cover的睡眠/唤醒感应器。如果您不希望移除该功能,那么您需要将该组件拆下并适配到新的屏幕组件上。 把屏幕左下角的四个焊接点去除,以移除组件电缆的感应器。
  • 请仔细检查您将要替换的组件是否与原组件相匹配。

  • 您新的屏幕组件可能缺少针对于Smart Cover的睡眠/唤醒感应器。如果您不希望移除该功能,那么您需要将该组件拆下并适配到新的屏幕组件上。

  • 把屏幕左下角的四个焊接点去除,以移除组件电缆的感应器。

  • 该步骤中包含将感应器转移到新的屏幕组件上的说明。

I guess I may have not soldered the sleep/wake sensor right and it was not working after I put the new screen back on. I wish there could be a way to test if the soldering was good or not before I connect the screen back. Also, I have found that even the sleep/wake button near the upper right corner even cannot put the ipad into sleep or wake it up by pressing it once. I guess this could related with the sensor, and the lock/unlock option under the "display & brightness" setting has also been gone due to this issue. So I would say this sensor is not only for the smart case, but also for the sleep/wake button to work as well (the other functions of this button such as poweroff, taking screenshots are still working fine). Solder it carefully if you still want the button to work.

Ming Chen - 回复

  • 该视频详细介绍了拆卸传感器的柔性电缆并将其重新连接到新显示屏的步骤。


short urgent question:

Is this step (desolder the sensor felx) necessary for the function of the display or only for the Home button (touch ID) function?

Stephan Döbling - 回复

  • 留下显示组件。

You may need to transfer the camera surround from the old digitizer, if your new part does not include it.

Kelly - 回复






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What about the part soldered to the display to the left of the home button? It's showcased in step 43 but hidden with black tape then missing in step 44? What is the significants of this component or flex cable...

jmcdonough - 回复

Where is the transfer of the sleep/wake sensor? its a 4 point solder connection.

Anthony W - 回复

Be careful if you replace the home button bracket, many of the replacements do not have the small silver disc that sits in the recess on the inside of the bracket. If you do not transfer this from the old one, the home button will not work as there will be nothing for the home button to press against

waynechamberlain - 回复

can you describe how to transfer the sensor flex cable assembly (four small solder points left to home button on step 45)?

No use to buy your spare part without this step!

kaspar - 回复

This is one of the harder steps to accomplish I felt. You need to de-solder the four points by heating them up at the same time if possible. They actually have small holes in the center of them for the solder to go through to the bottom pads. Once it is removed you need to clean them off and remove as much old solder as possible without damaging the ribbon they are on. Once you have the new screen in place you need to put the part in its appropriate place and then solder the points. Using an ample amount of flux is helpful but you have to clean up afterwards with IP alcohol. If you have a small microscope or good camera you can zoom in and see if the connections are solid and then you are done.

Benjamin Huntsman -

Having the same problem as Kaspar. Cannot re-install sleep/wake sensor.

Christopher Williams - 回复

Looking for the display cable bracket, but it is impossible to find. Anyone?

Stefan L - 回复

I´ve replace LCD Display for newer one because crash it before, but the actual problem is that I don´t have any image. If I press the power button, just display gray color. What can I do?

David Reva - 回复

You will have to check the connection of the ribbon cables, but generally this means you have a bad replacement screen (LCD in particular). I would recommend getting a new screen (digitizer and lcd) assembly.

JJ Burrill -

For the sleep wake sensor, I just took my hakko iron, no flux or anything special and de soldered the sensor from the original screen. After this I aligned it on the new one with my tweezers and heated it up with my iron around 650 F. Once my tip was tinned, I got the solder flowing and it was all connected. Either I'm good at soldering (I think so?) or I got lucky. Would have been easier with flux but it is not impossible. The repair was 100% successful, and the sensor works perfect in the case... Hope others have the same luck I did! Took me about 3 ish hours to completely get the screen off, parts transferred, and the adhesive mess cleaned before resealing the new one down.

JJ Burrill - 回复

I just received iFixit LCD/digitizer/glass replacement assembly for iPad Air 2 (A1566) and see the distance between the IC’s on either side of the home button ribbon cable is narrower than on the original LCD! There is no room for the Touch ID chip since the distance from the Ziff connector (where the home button ribbon cable attaches) to the IC next to where the Touch ID chip goes is narrower by about 8mm!

Is there a new version of the home button with a shorter ribbon cable or is this a mistake in the replacement screens? To re-use the original home button you would have to fold its ribbon cable or put the Touch chip up on the IC so it would probably not allow the screen assembly to seat properly.

Has anyone else had this problem?

James Sturgeon - 回复

I am having the same issue! Did this ever get resolved for you?

Jonathan Nicholas -



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