简介

使用本指南来移除MacBook Pro 的粘合电池。 推荐使用iFixit 更换套件。 您的套件中的液体粘合剂去除剂将溶解固定电池的粘合剂,从而轻松拆卸电池。 或者,您可以使用iOpener,以便在撬出电池之前软化粘合剂。

“iFixit胶粘剂去除剂是极度易燃的。”在通风良好的地方进行。 在此过程中,请不要吸烟或者在明火附近工作。

“为了安全起见,在开始执行此程序之前请先用尽MacBook Pro的电池。” 如果意外穿刺充电的锂离子电池可能会造成危险且无法控制的火灾。

注意':用于溶解电池胶粘剂的溶剂可能会损坏某些塑料部件,如MacBook Pro的塑料扬声器外壳。 使用溶剂时要小心。

拆下以下10个固定在上壳体上的螺丝
  • 拆下以下10个固定在上壳体上的螺丝

    • 两个 2.3毫米 的梅花五角螺丝

    • 八个 3.0毫米 的梅花五角螺丝

For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

Carlos - 回复

Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

Fredrik -

Is the Pentalobe screwdriver mentioned in the tools list? I did not have one so I used a filed down flat blade screwdriver. Not a fantastic idea, but it works.

Alex Birkett - 回复

Yes, it's mentioned on the top of this page. P5 Pentalobe to be precise. I didn't have one either, so I bought one from iFixit and that works fantastic. An absolutely precise fit, which is important especially when you might open your MacBook a couple of times during the years you own it. Not using the correct tool might do more harm to the screws than you want! I once had this with a Lenovo Yoga 3 Pro, which has Torx screws (T4 I think) and I used cheap Chinese quality tools, with the result that both the tool and one of the screws are damaged.

addvariety -

the macbook in the picture is 2012. does it has the same structure as 2013?

Edison - 回复

I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

marketing - 回复

is P5 supposed to be for all 10 screws? it works on the 2x 2.3mm at the top, but not for the 8x others for me. what size screwdriver for the 3mm? thanks

monsieurescargot - 回复

Yes, the p5 works for all 10 pentalobe screw heads for bottom cover. The the different size mm reference only refers to the difference in length of the screws, but again both heads are p5.

Antoine Thornton - 回复

把你的手指放在上下壳体中间
  • 把你的手指放在上下壳体中间

  • 轻轻地把上下壳体拉开

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上下壳体中间有两个塑料卡扣相连 在组装期间,温柔地从中间推下机壳,重新扣上这两个塑料卡扣。
  • 上下壳体中间有两个塑料卡扣相连

  • 在组装期间,温柔地从中间推下机壳,重新扣上这两个塑料卡扣。

There are two screws that are shorter-they go to the back near the vent.

wrbandllm - 回复

This was already mentioned at the start, it says 2x 2.3mm screws and those are coloured red instead of orange for the other ones in iFixit's image.

addvariety - 回复

What is the black vinyl-y sticker on the inside of the case (some sort of shield?). I was forced to slightly puncture it in order to replace the feet on my laptop. Thanks in advance.

Tommy Huang - 回复

如有必要,可拆卸粘在电池接触板上的塑料盖。
  • 如有必要,可拆卸粘在电池接触板上的塑料盖。

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用撬棒的平端,将电池连接器从主板插座上直着往上撬起。 确保您只抬起了连接器本身,而不是插座,否则您可能会对主板造成永久性的损坏。
  • 用撬棒的平端,将电池连接器从主板插座上直着往上撬起。

  • 确保您只抬起了连接器本身,而不是插座,否则您可能会对主板造成永久性的损坏。

I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

jramsey21 - 回复

I have the some problem. I was thinking to replace the whole battery but I am not it will solve the problem. Any suggestions?

salvatorebarbera -

Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

andrehedegaard -

Have either of you replaced the battery and/or circuit board to fix the MacBooks with the water damage ? I have the same problem with the MacBook working fine when connected to power but dying immediately when the power cord is removed.

Steve - 回复

Hi, Steve. I had the same problem: Macbook Pro 15 retina with coffee damage. And it worked fine when connected to power. I made it working after replacing the whole battery. It seems that circuit connected to the battery becomes disabled to prevent short circuit.

Vadim Gribanov -

When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

Ethan Tarquin - 回复

Thanks for the comment. My MBP isn’t powering on after I walked through these steps, and I assume it is because the battery connector isn’t fully connected. (I can’t check yet since I borrowed the pentalobe screwdriver)

Caleb Steinborn -

+1

I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

Jonas Ehrs -

If I only want to replace the trackpad cable, then which steps should I skip? This step seems unnecessary

Parth Gudhka - 回复

在维修过程中,将电池连接器弯曲,以防止意外接触其插座。
  • 在维修过程中,将电池连接器弯曲,以防止意外接触其插座。

If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

sebasgaes - 回复

I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

LaymanLab - 回复

That’s a great idea!

David Lilliebridge - 回复

I used a small piece of paper to prevent the connector from connecting, no need to wrestle with even low-stick adhesive.

dbrick - 回复

移除将I/O板线缆末端与逻辑板相固定的 两颗2.1 mm T5 Torx 螺丝。
  • 移除将I/O板线缆末端与逻辑板相固定的 两颗2.1 mm T5 Torx 螺丝。

At this point it's a good idea to take sheet of printer paper, like A4, and press each screw into the paper roughly in the position it was removed from. When it comes time to reassemble it, you wont get the different lengths mixed up.

Martin Gray - 回复

This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, skipped the I/O Cable removal (Steps 7, 8, 9, 10) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery.

barak - 回复

After this step I continued from step 13, the steps in between were not really necessary in my opinion ( I succeeded the replacement without them). Just be careful not to touch these connectors during replacement.

driesverfaillie - 回复

使用镊子抓住I/O线缆托架将其从Mac Book中移除。
  • 使用镊子抓住I/O线缆托架将其从Mac Book中移除。

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使用撬棒扁平的一段来将I/O板的连接器与逻辑板上的插座分离。 小心,只能在I/O板线缆上撬起,而不是从逻辑板上的插座撬起,这样做可能会损坏逻辑板。
  • 使用撬棒扁平的一段来将I/O板的连接器与逻辑板上的插座分离。

  • 小心,只能在I/O板线缆上撬起,而不是从逻辑板上的插座撬起,这样做可能会损坏逻辑板。

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将I/O板线缆提起,将其弯折到一边。 为了避免损伤线缆,只能在I/O板线缆弯曲处弯折
  • 将I/O板线缆提起,将其弯折到一边。

  • 为了避免损伤线缆,只能在I/O板线缆弯曲处弯折

I removed I/O Board cable completely on both ends using a flat end plastic spudger tool. I did not feel comfortable “bending” it as shown in Pic. Be careful to not damage sockets on either end when removing battery. Extra care to not get any adhesive debris in exposed sockets. I have used the solvent with syringe and that can get rather messy and risk getting liquid onto keyboard/screen/motherboard components etc/. This time I used a plastic “Disposable Putty Knife” from Ace hardware. Speakers where easily removed in subsequent steps. Started pushing in from edges with plastic putty knife and battery cells separated surprisingly easy. This method is clean & much easier than the dental floss struggle!! I used Googone with QTips to remove adhesive remnants.

lamajr - 回复

小心在右侧扬声器连接线缆下放置撬棒的尖端,来将其从逻辑板上的插座中撬起。 小心在右侧扬声器连接线缆下放置撬棒的尖端,来将其从逻辑板上的插座中撬起。
  • 小心在右侧扬声器连接线缆下放置撬棒的尖端,来将其从逻辑板上的插座中撬起。

Same as my comment on Step 7: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. Same as my comment on Step 11: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. ( FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent)

barak - 回复

WARNING TO ANYONE WHO DOES THIS STEP! Be very careful to distinguish the cable end from the socket! I just managed to break the entire socket off of the logic board. I may try to solder it back on, but I may not, since it’s only for the speaker… Very disappointing anyway. The instructions should make it more clear just how delicate the socket itself is, especially right where the photo shows you inserting the spudger under the cable end to start dislodging it. It’s really hard to distinguish the cable end from the socket on this side!

jiclark - 回复

小心地将右侧扬声器线缆从外壳上剥离。 小心地将右侧扬声器线缆从外壳上剥离。 小心地将右侧扬声器线缆从外壳上剥离。
  • 小心地将右侧扬声器线缆从外壳上剥离。

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移除将右扬声器与顶壳固定的螺丝。
  • 移除将右扬声器与顶壳固定的螺丝。

    • 一颗 5.7 mm T5 Torx 螺丝

    • 一颗6.5 mm T5 Torx螺丝

    • 一颗3.8 mm T5 Torx 螺丝

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从线缆的末端提起右侧扬声器,使之与机壳分离。 从线缆的末端提起右侧扬声器,使之与机壳分离。 从线缆的末端提起右侧扬声器,使之与机壳分离。
  • 从线缆的末端提起右侧扬声器,使之与机壳分离。

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将撬棒头部插入连接器附近的左扬声器的线缆下,轻轻撬起,使其从主板上脱离。 将撬棒头部插入连接器附近的左扬声器的线缆下,轻轻撬起,使其从主板上脱离。
  • 将撬棒头部插入连接器附近的左扬声器的线缆下,轻轻撬起,使其从主板上脱离。

Same as my comment on Step 11: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. ( FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent).

barak - 回复

将固定左扬声器的几颗螺丝拆下:
  • 将固定左扬声器的几颗螺丝拆下:

    • 一颗 5.7 mm T5 Torx螺丝

    • 一颗 6.5 mm T5 Torx螺丝

    • 一颗 3.8 mm T5 Torx螺丝

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向上提起左扬声器,从电池中滑出,以便将其从上盖中取出。 小心不要将扬声器电缆挂在侧面的螺丝孔柱上 小心不要将扬声器电缆挂在侧面的螺丝孔柱上
  • 向上提起左扬声器,从电池中滑出,以便将其从上盖中取出。

  • 小心不要将扬声器电缆挂在侧面的螺丝孔柱上

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拆下用于固定电池的上部五个3.7 mm T5 Torx螺丝。
  • 拆下用于固定电池的上部五个3.7 mm T5 Torx螺丝。

In my macbook pro retina, these are some kind of plastic screws. I cannot remove them.

adriendavernas - 回复

The plastic screws just need to be pulled out with a spudger/finger and you're good to go. I have the same model, there's also a screw on the power board not mentioned in this guide, takes a T5 screwdriver/bit

alex - 回复

Question - when putting the new battery back into the case, do we need to remove old glue/add new glue, use no glue at all, or place the battery in and then reheat to melt the old glue so that it will adhere to the new battery? Thanks!

chal740 - 回复

What is the part number for this battery, or where can I find it?

dfreeman110 -

I wish to ask the same question.

vbivanov -

My adhesive didn't have enough tack to hold the battery in. I just reassembled without it and can't hear the batteries moving, but I have the rubber grommets and not screws as MarkB mentioned. Fo future repairers, I'd recommend buying some nonpermanent two sided tape just so you have the option to fasten it in.

Vince Cipriani -

I wish they would find another way of securing the battery, this is ridiculous.

brian whittle - 回复

On each 'corner' of the frame that surrounds the two centre batteries, rather than 'plastic screws' mentioned by adriendavernas there are 'domed' rubber grommets. These presumably rest against the inside of the bottom cover when it is fitted thus supporting the batteries. As there were no screws underneath in these 4 positions, there is no need to remove these grommets. Agree with alex re: removing the extra T5 screw on the power board.

MarkB - 回复

After destroying the adhesive which secures the batteries (bad technique or lack of patience in my effort) what is recommended to secure the batteries when reassembling?

maxB - 回复

I only had the single far right screw to remove.

barak - 回复

My replacement A1582 battery actually had holes for the screws, though my original A1582 battery only had the 'domed' rubber grommets. Anyways, putting in the OEM A1582 battery without anything in the holes worked ok.

Srini Seetharaman - 回复

I wanted to put the rubber grommets on the new battery, so I used tweezers to get them back through the holes on the new battery

Dallin Christensen - 回复

在 iFixit 电池更换套装中的液体除胶剂会影响MacBook Pro 屏幕的放反射涂层。
  • 在 iFixit 电池更换套装中的液体除胶剂会影响MacBook Pro 屏幕的放反射涂层。

  • 为了保护你的屏幕,请操作时在屏幕和键盘间放置一张铝箔。

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如果您有一个带有液体去胶剂的iFixit电池组合,那么是时候准备好了 或者,如果您使用热iOpener方法,可以跳过以下三个步骤。
  • 如果您有一个带有液体去胶剂的iFixit电池组合,那么是时候准备好了

  • 或者,如果您使用热iOpener方法,可以跳过以下三个步骤。

  • iFixit脱胶剂含有丙酮,可以刺激皮肤和眼睛。

    • 处理和涂抹去除剂时,请戴上防护眼镜。 (您的套件中包含防护眼镜)

    • 不要戴隐形眼镜保护眼睛。

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打开你的粘合胶清除剂。 将少量(大约1-2毫升)的胶水清除剂装入您的工具包中的注射器。
  • 打开你的粘合胶清除剂。

  • 将少量(大约1-2毫升)的胶水清除剂装入您的工具包中的注射器。

    • 最好每次不要超过约1-2毫升的胶水去除剂,以避免意外涂抹太多。

    • 在本步骤的其余部分,根据需要补充注射器。

Air can tilted upside down to freeze the adhesive works very well also. I just used this method today to pull a battery.

aadeshina - 回复

在最右边的电池单元的边缘均匀涂抹少量的去除剂(约1毫升)。
  • 在最右边的电池单元的边缘均匀涂抹少量的去除剂(约1毫升)。

  • 等2-3分钟过后,胶水去除剂渗入到电池单元下方,然后再进行下一步骤。

  • 一次不要涂抹大于1毫升的去除剂。使用过多的去除剂可能会使其渗透到键盘下并造成潜在性的损伤。

I managed to remove the battery without the adhesive by using the thread technique. More info in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55... . Just make sure you have someone to help you and hold the laptop in place for you.

driesverfaillie - 回复

如果您没有胶水去除剂,您将使用热的iOpener来加热和软化将电池固定到上壳上的一部分粘合剂,然后再仔细撬动。 使用热的iOpener来覆盖最右边两个电池的一半。
  • 如果您没有胶水去除剂,您将使用热的iOpener来加热和软化将电池固定到上壳上的一部分粘合剂,然后再仔细撬动。

  • 使用热的iOpener来覆盖最右边两个电池的一半。

  • 大约一分钟后,重新加热iOpener并将其移动到覆盖最右侧电池的另一半。

I did not have an iOpener. I did not fancy using a heat gun on the batteries either so I used two flat metal spudgers to prise them off the body of the mac book. I hit the spudgers with a small hammer.

Alex Birkett - 回复

I popped the freaking iopener in the microwave following this instruction. Said to heat for 30 secs put on for a minute then reheat after that minute. Then read on the iopener that I shouldn't heat more the once unless after two minutes. Just wonderful.

Jennifer Myer - 回复

I used a sock filled with rice and it worked exactly the same. Microwaved it for 2 minutes (hot enough to barely hold) and set it on the batteries as above for 2 minutes.

Then I reheated it for a minute and opened up the laptop, and slide my DYI iOpener under so it was directly under the batteries (across the trackpad portion of the laptop). This worked great because the heat went straight thru the aluminum and softened the adhesive. I ended up letting the screen hang over the edge of the table while I pried the batteries out.

barak - 回复

This heating with the iOpener took me forever. I tried my fair share of heating followed by nudging slowly with a credit card 1 mm at a time. Finally pried it off after 30 mins.

Srini Seetharaman - 回复

在最右侧的电池和上盖之间插进一张塑料卡,去抹两者之间的粘合剂。 在此过程中,请注意不要用工具损坏任何电池。 损坏的锂离子电池可能会泄漏危险化学品和/或着火。 只能使用塑料撬工具
  • 在最右侧的电池和上盖之间插进一张塑料卡,去抹两者之间的粘合剂。

  • 在此过程中,请注意不要用工具损坏任何电池。 损坏的锂离子电池可能会泄漏危险化学品和/或着火。 只能使用塑料撬工具

  • 当使用热的iOpener方法时,如果遇到明显的撬动阻力,请停止并使用iOpener重新加热您正在处理的部分。

In addition to using the wheat bag/iOpener to loosen the batteries, I found it useful each time I inserted the plastic card under the batteries to give the card a 'wipe' with isopropyl alcohol to ensure that it didn't stick to the adhesive holding the batteries down. it also presumably eases the glue away from the batteries somewhat.

MarkB - 回复

Do the same tools and steps work on a MacBook Pro 15" late 2015 model?

Sean - 回复

Heat can be dangerous to Li-Ion batteries, no???

Alex - 回复

Excessive heat can be dangerous, but the iOpener is designed to never get hot enough to cause permanent damage. Using a heat gun or hot plate could be dangerous, but the iOpener method is the safest one we know of =)

Sam Lionheart -

I found it helpful to use some dental floss to help loosen each cell and then pry the rest off with the card

Dallin Christensen - 回复

使用塑料卡从后面撬起最右侧的电池。 使用塑料卡从后面撬起最右侧的电池。
  • 使用塑料卡从后面撬起最右侧的电池。

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与相邻的电池重复此过程: 将少量(约1ml)液体粘合剂去除剂置于电池底下,并等待2-3分钟以使其渗入并软化粘合剂 或者,如果需要,可以使用iOpener重新加热此部分。
  • 与相邻的电池重复此过程:

    • 将少量(约1ml)液体粘合剂去除剂置于电池底下,并等待2-3分钟以使其渗入并软化粘合剂

    • 或者,如果需要,可以使用iOpener重新加热此部分。

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暂时将您的塑料卡放在两个最右侧的电池单元的下面,以防止它们重新粘到上壳上。 如果使用iOpener,请重新加热并重新使用,这次是最左边的电池。 再次,将iOpener放在每个位置大约一分钟,再加热,以加热最左边的电池的每一半。
  • 暂时将您的塑料卡放在两个最右侧的电池单元的下面,以防止它们重新粘到上壳上。

  • 如果使用iOpener,请重新加热并重新使用,这次是最左边的电池。

    • 再次,将iOpener放在每个位置大约一分钟,再加热,以加热最左边的电池的每一半。

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重复上述步骤将两个最左侧的电池单元与上壳分开。 请记住将少量(约1毫升)的胶水去除剂涂在每个电池底下,然后等待2-3分钟才能渗透并软化粘合剂。 请记住将少量(约1毫升)的胶水去除剂涂在每个电池底下,然后等待2-3分钟才能渗透并软化粘合剂。
  • 重复上述步骤将两个最左侧的电池单元与上壳分开。

    • 请记住将少量(约1毫升)的胶水去除剂涂在每个电池底下,然后等待2-3分钟才能渗透并软化粘合剂。

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将第二张卡留在两个左侧电池格之间的角落。
  • 将第二张卡留在两个左侧电池格之间的角落。

  • 在以下步骤中,您可以使用第三张卡或右侧的卡片。 右角粘合剂应该是干燥/冷却的,使得在需要时可以容易地再次拉出电池。

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为了分离固定最后两个中间电池单元的粘合剂,将另外1毫升液体粘合剂去除剂(或您的iOpener)应用于每个电池。 这可能会将MacBook Pro的一面提升几英寸,以使粘合剂去除剂在电池下面以正确的方向流动。 在工作时,您可以使用坚固的书或泡沫块来支持MacBook Pro的一面。
  • 为了分离固定最后两个中间电池单元的粘合剂,将另外1毫升液体粘合剂去除剂(或您的iOpener)应用于每个电池。

    • 这可能会将MacBook Pro的一面提升几英寸,以使粘合剂去除剂在电池下面以正确的方向流动。 在工作时,您可以使用坚固的书或泡沫块来支持MacBook Pro的一面。

    • 将卡片插入左中心电池和上壳之间约一英寸,将电池和外壳之间的粘合剂分开。

My laptop had a strip over these center batteries. I had to remove that before getting the center batteries off.

Srini Seetharaman - 回复

My plastic cards were hitting a black trackpad backing. I thought this was the adhesive not coming off. I also didn’t want to harm the battery and didn’t bring the card up enough.

I found out by going through one of the side batteries, but could have just raised the tip of the card very slightly.

Cameron Malek - 回复

将卡拉出并将其插入右中心电池和上壳之间约一英寸,将电池和外壳之间的粘合剂分开。 将卡拉出并将其插入右中心电池和上壳之间约一英寸,将电池和外壳之间的粘合剂分开。
  • 将卡拉出并将其插入右中心电池和上壳之间约一英寸,将电池和外壳之间的粘合剂分开。

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在两个中心上撬起以分离最后一点粘合剂并将电池从设备中提起。 在两个中心上撬起以分离最后一点粘合剂并将电池从设备中提起。
  • 在两个中心上撬起以分离最后一点粘合剂并将电池从设备中提起。

I found that gentle application from a heat gun works well enough to soften the adhesive. Use a plastic card to help as you go. Use caution not to over heat anything.

John Lerefebvre - 回复

移出电池。 安装新电池之前,请从MacBook Pro中取出所有旧胶。
  • 移出电池。

  • 安装新电池之前,请从MacBook Pro中取出所有旧胶。

    • 有点运气的话,你可以用手指慢慢拉出每一块粘合剂。

    • 否则,用一点粘合剂去除剂将每个粘合剂部分浸泡2-3分钟,然后用开口或其他工具将其刮掉。 这可能需要相当多的步骤,所以要耐心。

    • 将任何剩余的粘合剂去除剂拖下来,并将您的MacBook Pro放置几分钟即可风干。

  • iFixit套件中包含的更换电池预先安装了粘合剂。 在剥离覆盖胶粘剂的胶片之前,仔细测试电池的配合和对准,然后将每个电池牢固地按入到位。如果更换电池上有原电池上不存在的胶片、衬垫,请将它们移除。

  • 使用前请先校准电池:将其用完,然后将其充电至100%,然后再次排空,直至MacBook Pro自动关闭。 再次充电并正常使用。

  • 如果您在安装新电池后发现任何不寻常的行为或问题,可能需要重新设置MacBook Pro的SMC。

RECOMMENDATION: The battery connector and associated screw are critical when considering battery alignment. Also don’t forget the left and right speaker assemblies when aligning the two small outer cells. I didn’t consider these and had issues.

Also, keep the transparent top film on the battery to keep the cells aligned with respect to each other, and always support all the cells if handling upside down.

Cameron Malek - 回复

I agree, if you don’t reinstall the speaker assemblies before installing the battery, they may be impossible to put back in after the battery has adhered

Dallin Christensen -

结论

要重新组装您的设备,请按照本指南的相反顺序进行操作。

58等其他人完成本指南。

特别感谢这些译者︰

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What is the part number for the mid 2014 13 inch MacBook Pro battery? I see a lot of batteries for sale for the mid 2013 online. Are they compatible?

johnpaeng - 回复

Macbook Pro A1502 not charging after disassembly/assembly (I just wanted to clean the touchpad). MagSafe is orange but the Macbook is not charging - running only when plugged in. MacOS says the battery needs to be replaced - even if it has 82% charged.. I alson tried reset of SMC and PRAM with no effect..

Any advice? Thanks

tommy69 - 回复

Same problem here. Did you find a solution?

Tim Bo -

guys same problem, did you find some solution? @tim_bo @tommy69

Alpay -

Yes, same thing. Had to replace battery and now it’s working.

Check if it’s actually charging. My battery status stated that it needs to be replaced and mac was running on ac instead of battery.

Dominika -

Bonjour, mon problème : mon Mac Book Pro 13" 2014 mes pourcentage descende de 2 pourcents toutes les 2 minutes il tiens a peine 3h a votre avis vaut t'il le coup que je change la batterie ?

Merci.

Stryken Strix - 回复

I would advise working to step six, then skipping to step 16. Take the speaker cables and plastic frame, once the screws are out, and gently fold them back. I used a stiff plastic-about the thickness and size of a credit card to work the glue off from under the battery. No heat or alcohol. All together, from opening to closing, a very simple 15 minute job.

I followed the steps and unfortunately the left speaker socket came off of the control board. Which is why I advise not doing the steps between 6-15. Once the side frames and speaker is off, just fold them back and out of the way.

Brij Verma - 回复

Thank you for the post. I used it for a friend whose battery was not charging. I am fairly familiar with Macs but don't work on them everyday. This guide was very helpful. Now she has a new battery (good seller on eBay...less than $60) and is back up and going. Thank you again for the post, I greatly appreciate it (enough to give a comment...and I usually never give comments).

MacFixer - 回复

I recently completed this guide and everything went very smoothly. I skipped many of the steps leading up to the adhesive removal, and only found it necessary to pull up the left and right speakers. My adhesive remover had evaporated, so I just used some nail polish (100% acetone) and leverage to get the battery cells to come off the case. Be aware that once you stick the batteries in, they will be very difficult to pull back off. I put mine in slightly crooked, but everything powered up fine and my macbook's battery is good as new. My only real struggle was that since I put my batteries in a bit crooked, the case back wouldn't attach flush to the body, so I had to go back in and wiggle the small tubes surrounding the main cell so they would be seated properly.

Thanks for the guide!

David Thibodeaux - 回复

Do you know when the repair kit is going to be available again?

carlos a. - 回复

Piece of cake. Hardest part was disconnecting the speaker connections, because it’s a delicate job and you really don’t know how much stress you can put on the connection until you undo the first one.

Many have suggested not removing the speakers, but I felt it gave me far better access and leverage to pry the battery out.

Gary Gray - 回复

IFIXIT Rocks! Thank you so much for the fantastic guides.

I wish you the greatest success in 2018!

Langston Holland

soundscapes - 回复

I found this guide to be great. My first time replacing a battery on any laptop. The only hard part was of course removing the old battery. I used the hair dryer method I saw on YouTube. Took me a while, over an hour, only because it was my first time and I wanted to make sure I did it right. Everything powered back up and is working normal. I am so glad I found these guides. Thank you so much. Apple store here in Jacksonville, Fl wanted to send my laptop out to a service center for a track pad replacement, if that was what was needed, for up to $400. Meaning, it might not cost that much, but it could, so be prepared. My issue was a trackpad that was not clicking any more. Fiddled with the screw a bit and it still wouldn’t click right, checked the battery cycle and saw that it was at 890 so that needed to be replaced. So got my battery from here and replaced that and fiddled with the same trackpad a bit and it is better, but still won’t click the same as new, but it does work just OK.

judymarie58 - 回复

Should I be worried about ESD? Anti-static Wrist strap? Plug-in the MacBook to have it grounded? Perform the replacement completely naked on hardwood floors in a moist environment? Or just touch a part of the metal laptop frame before I start touching more delicate components?

Dylan Bartley - 回复

@dylanf79 Yes, always have a strategy for protecting against ESD. Modern devices have a lot of ESD protection baked in, and using ESD-safe tools like the ones recommended in this guide goes a long way—but still, better safe than sorry. Use a wrist strap if you like, or just touch a metal part of the chassis frequently during the repair. Remove rings and other metal jewelry from your hands before you start. Definitely avoid environments with a high static charge (performing the repair while shuffling back and forth across a carpeted room not recommended).

Jeff Suovanen -

I gave a friend my old 2014 MacBook Pro and got myself a new one. I loved the machine, but she needed one. A week after she had it, she spilled a glass of water on it. After drying it out, it worked fine, but wouldn’t run from, or charge the battery. Most people suggested it needed an new $700+ logic board, but a few suggested I start with just a battery replacement. So I bought the kit from Ifixit. The kit was complete with everything I needed. The step by step instructions were clear and easy to follow. And best of all the battery replacement alone has the machine working as good as new for only $99.

Thanks Ifixit!!!

Mike D’Anna - 回复

Done, thanks a lot.

We’ll see if my work is valuable in time by now.

SMC/NVRAM initialisation have been necessary as expected, but all works at first try.

Some comments though,

- in my mid 2014 MBP the battery has only pads instead of screws, and the battery provided in the kit needs a bit of tweaking to fit inside, though nothing that hard.

- maybe you should add some advices about having a little magnifying glass with you to disconnect precisely and safely the connectors with the spudger (especially if you’re older than 50 like me :D) and a blower (the kind you use for photography gears for instance) to get off the dust accumulated in time in the inside. A little vacuum can help to, if handled very carefully (to avoid aspiring little screws or parts of course).

- could be a good advice too to tell people to place the sheet of aluminum foil even before the beginning of the work, as it is safer to manipulate the computer while it is still closed.

However excellent “how to” and toolkit.

Thanks again

Pierre Lagarde - 回复

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